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Buying a trailer
I'm thinking of getting a trailer for my tractor, too. Everything I've seen and read leads me toward getting a 7,000# GVW trailer (two 3500# axles) with a full floor. I'm thinking it'll be great for the tractor as well as moving any other vehicles or just about anything else.
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Buying a trailer
forgot to CMA, need CDL in Mich.
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Every state is different in term of regulations. I don't even need to register a farm trailer and you can tow a trailer behind a trailer in AL.
With the dove tail on the trailer, you can carry cars on you equipment trailer, but you need to watch loading and unloading as you may high center. You can not have side rails unless removable or you can not get out of the doors.
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It's very easy to jam a caged backhoe into the ground and damage it when trailering a backhoe mounted tractor. The problem is how far back and low the hoe sits in comparison to the steepness of the loading ramp.
I don't know which type ramps are better, but I think a loading dock dug into the side of a hill is best, or at least a sizable hole for the trailer wheels to sit in. I know I did drag my hoe going up a dove-tail on a 40' float trailer, which of course is higher than a light truck trailer. I knew it might happen so I was going very slow, and no damage resulted. Coming off a trailer is where the damage usually happens. One of the advantages of a 3ph mounted hoe is that it’s easy to disable the 3ph lockdown and lift the hoe, which is what I did.
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Looking at dump trailer that will double as an equipment traler for my Ford 1310 (or an old 1 ton dump w/ an equipment trailer). Anyone have any knowledge of dump tralers, price range, good or bad manufacturers?? Thanks for time & help.
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I think that trailer manufacture is pretty regionalized. It's something that large welding and fabrication shops could get into. I'm not sure if any brand name is highly recognized and has something like a dealer network. Might be different for aluminum trailers though.
There's a trailer manufacturer around here who will build anything wanted, but they usually have an inventory of ‘ready-mades’ on their lot. Pretty much anybody who wants a new trailer buys directly from them. I guess the manufacturer is the brand name but you'd probably never hear it outside this region. There aren't any dealers. I think I'd start looking in the yellow pages under 'trailer manufacturers.'
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Unless you are going to be towing it daily for a lot of miles I don't see where you need more than a 7000lb trailer. That will give you the extra that you need. I do not like the landscape ramps as stated earlier as they do produce a lot of wind drag. Brakes are a must and on both axles. The deck over has it's advatages and disadvantages for the deck height, lower is better for stability but can be a problem if to low for ground clearence.
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Trailer World (chain) had dump trailers from Big Tex and Bri-Mar. You could get a bumper pull with a 16 ft bed for 3.5-4.5K. They had nice tie downs in the box and ramps that slide under the box. The original dump trailer manufacturer's were much more money than that and I would not say better quality than the Bri-Mar.
The Goose neck are nearly 2x that price for the same size. I good equipment tailer, new tires and brakes are some where in the 1.5K range.
Don't go with the light channel landscaping trailers they don't stand up to the weight of tractors.
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I trailered a 1070 w FEL, 4x110# rear wheel weights, and an implement on the 3pt (could have been a blade, soil pulverizer, etc -- usually around 150# to 400#). Then i went to a 4700 with same attachments.
Used a car haul trailer -- dual axles of 3500#, 16' with 82" width, wood planck floor, 2" ball, passenger car tires, detachable ramps, behind a F150.
The trailering was 20 miles max maybe 8 trips max per year.
I got by. But the load was probably 5500#, more than what the trailer or the truck was suited for. Had to be real careful to get the load positioned on the trailer properly to avoid fishtailing. Drove <45 mph, etc.
Any greater usage would necessitate a bigger trailer for sure. My rear wheel positioning is wide (position 5 of 8),and they were a squeeze to fit between the wheel fenders.
jim
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Jim, you reminded me of the different trailers I've used and how things work. I bought a boat and brought it home and had a fishing trip planned 3 hours away. When going over the trailer, which mind you towed home fine, I found the tires showed some dry rot. So off tire shopping I go, could not find anything but a fellow told me he would sell me the same size car tires for a good price, I did, and I have since put the right tires on it as it was all over the road just like you. Every divit, crack, or bump and off it would go swaying all over. The larger trailer, like an 18 foot deck will allow you to room to better position the load. I'd haul your JD on a 7000lb trailer as you weigh in at about 5000lbs unless your tires are loaded with out fear of overload. Mind you I do this with a 1/2 ton dodge with four wheel drive. I also use 10000gvw deck overs at 18 foot flat pulling L-48 Kubota's and often for 45 miles at a wack. Just reminds me of driving a tractor trailer with a 250 horse Cummins and a 13 speed with 70000gvw. I do hope to get the brake valve hooked up soon as it does get a bit touchy on hills.
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