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Electric brakes with a tractor?
Ken, let me know if you can't find the kit with your deal and I can get Ricky to work on it. A lot of parts are listed as obsolete but they are still in the system. The rental upgrade kit is listed as obsolete too but they still sell them.
The other thing is, look in your operator's manual. I recently had to tow my boat to the bottom of my driveway hill which is pretty steep. The boat and trailer weight at least 8,000 lbs. and probably more. I was afraid to try it with the 4410 as I feared the boat would push the tractor down the hill uncontrollably. I checked the manual and it stated that the tractor was capable of towing and braking 8,000 lbs. I decided to give it a try and I figure my emergency brake device would be dropping the FEL bucket into the ground and dig it in if worst came to worst. I put the tractor in 4WD and A range and very slowly took the boat down the hill. It handled the boat and the hill like it was not even there. Mind you I used the 3 pt. hitch trailer hitch in my profile pics and carried the trailer tongue as low to the ground as was possible. Worked out real well and saved my a BUNCH of hastle hooking up the truck to the boat. The boat trailer had surge brakes which seemed to work well in concert with the tractor. Good call on Mark's part for pointing that out. The surge brakes are usually much cheaper and MUCH easier to maintain. The issue I think you will run into with electric brakes on your tractor is......where and how will you mount and wire the brake controller???? Surge brakes would be the best and easiest route to take and use the 7 pin plug kit for brake lights if you have them. Just a few thoughts I figured I would throw out there before the CRS fades them away. ;o)
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Electric brakes with a tractor?
Thanks guys. That's all good information. I'd guess the 4310 with me on it weighs somewhere around 6000 lbs and the chipper is supposed to be about 5000 lbs so in that regard I'm in decent shape. I'll have to check the JD manual on towing capacity though. How do surge brakes work? If I could interface those with the electric brakes on the trailer it would be a very clean solution.
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Electric brakes with a tractor?
kwschumm, what do you have rigged on your 4310 that makes it weigh in at 6000lbs? I thought they were in the 2900 lb range.
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Electric brakes with a tractor?
Ken, surge brakes are a stand-alone hydraulic system.
The coupler (hitch) has some room for fore & aft motion designed into it, and a hydraulic master cylinder and reservoir in the rear. When the tow vehicle stops the trailer wants to keep going, this causes the coupler to compress this applies force to the master cylinder which in turn pressurises the wheel cylinders applying the brakes.
As Chief noted it is a very simple, rugged system. It is also completely 'automatic' since it works stricly by the difference in speed caused between trailer and towing vehicle. There is a lot less maintenance as a rule as compared to electric brakes.
As Plots noted, I think you're a little off in your estimation of weight, but not as much as he figured. Your machine is probably about 3k. lbs. plus another 1k. lbs. for the FEL, maybe 1.5k. lbs with your grapple in place.
My 'Bota is a similar size and it weighs a smidge under 6k. lbs. including cab and a 1k. lbs. box blade hanging off the back. I know, because the nice people in our Highways Dept. weighed on the side of the road for me recently,  , luckily it was a 'free' weighing session.
Best of luck.
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Electric brakes with a tractor?
Ken, I think if you try pulling your chipper with a little caution I don't think you will need to worry about it. I've taken light(no ballast) L's and pulled loaded hay wagons that are 9x18 with kicker hay in them and never had a problem moving them or stoping them even going down the road. Don't get me wrong I was cautious but never had a problem. Even did a load of straw with a RTV in medium range two wheel drive and never touched the brake petal! Check out your pickup controllers that sell for about 70 to 80 dollars, that would be about all you need as suggested but I would cheap out I believe as I think for the speeds of the tractor and the hydro transmission it shouldn't be a problem.
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Electric brakes with a tractor?
With a tractor weight around 2900 lbs. FEL est. 1,500 lbs. (with grapple), filled rear tires est. 500 lbs., I-Match (with trailer hitch) est. 75 lbs., operator 250 lbs. (sorry if I over estimated Ken!) ;o) Estimated weight of about 5225 lbs. total.
I think the surge brakes would be the way to go here. They worked just fine holding the boat back off the tractor going down hill for me. They just don't work instantaneously like electric brakes do. You also won't have to mess with a brake controller. The 7 pin plug kit should be a direct bolt on and provide break lights and turn signals. Maybe I am not up to speed on what a chipper weighs but I would think a chipper on a trailer would not weigh near 5,000 lbs. I would think more like 3,500 lbs. would be more in the neighborhood.
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Electric brakes with a tractor?
Thanks for the explanation everyone. It sounds like it would be a big PIA to replace the existing electric brakes with surge brakes, unless there is some easy conversion kit available somewhere.
plots1, I figured the weight like this. Tractor 2900 lbs (dry weight) + 150 lbs for fluids + 1200 lbs for loaded tires (that's what tire guy told me) + 1500 lbs for loader with grapple + 260 lbs for me (you weren't far off Chief!) which adds up to a bit more than 6000 lbs. I question the tire weight, though, and will have to research that.
Chief, according to the Bandit specs the 4-cylinder version of this chipper weighs between 4400 and 4600 lbs depending on frame size.
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Electric brakes with a tractor?
Ken, if you have a standard trailer axle beam in that thing it is remarkably easy to do the change-over.
The axle will have an industry standard sized spindle, all hubs, idler, electric or hydraulic brake style will slip on it. The coupler is standard also, probably a 3" wide tongue, the coupler also just bolts on. The hardest parts of the whole operation is running the brake lines and bleeding the system.
On the other hand, why make a bunch of work (and costs) for yourself, put a switch to a relay to 12v. to the brakes. As Art mentioned, I doubt you'll even need them. It is good insurance to have them operable though.
Best of luck.
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Electric brakes with a tractor?
kwschumm
I wouldnt question that weight at all. Last spring I was fiddleing with some half leaked out 8n tires and I can testify that if they would of tipped over and went to the ground I dont know if I could of got them back standing upright. Granted, I am a weak tit but they were very heavy.
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Electric brakes with a tractor?
According to JD your OPERATING weight is 2825#, and ballast only adds ~200# to an 11.2x24, and is effectively countered by front ballast in the form of your FEL. So getting pushed downhill is a VALID concern.
There are four types of electric controllers:
-power adjustment
-inertial deceleration (vehicle)
-inertial deceleration (trailer)
-hydraulic over electric
Since your biggest worry will be control on downhill slopes, I'd recommend the inertial deceleration (vehicle) type.
Electric brakes pull ~3 amps per magnet. Assuming 2 chipper brake drums, one 8A breaker on the supply side is sufficient. Some controllers also require a fuse on the switch side.
//greg//
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