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 12-09-2017, 16:26 Post: 101134
rpelleschi



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Guys, I reached out a few days ago about a counter weight issue and got some great advice. I decided to buy a Box Scraper when I get home, but any advice on which manufacturer? Size fo my JD 4400? Also from what I read I should get a hydraulic top cyliner. How does that plug into the current hydraulics?
I will be having a pole barn put up in a few months and need to get the site ready. I have been reading back through a lot of old posts, but still have a question. My site has about a 3' down grade to it. I will be putting up a 30'x50' building from the National Barn Company. Can I pull the dirt from the high side to the low side to even it out? I will be using the topsiol and dont know if that is a good idea. Any advice would be most welcome.






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 12-09-2017, 21:20 Post: 101138
grinder



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RP
Every state(climate) and local practice is different to some extent.
Here in Maine with a min. rule for frost at 4' I would
remove all overburden, DEF. Any dark soil and rocks down to what we call hardpan, then fill the site with clean course
gravel, Gravel, not screened stone. Not sure what you have available to you in Va.? What do they use for road beds? Topsoil does not make a good base.
Our rule of thumb is to compact it as we go every foot of fill gets compacted. I would want to be a foot(min) above grade(highest point)all the way around the building. Before they delivier the new builing.
I know you want to do all you can yourself and save money but you only get one chance to get the site work done right. You can fix a buiding after it's up, but you can't fix the site,after it's up.






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 12-10-2017, 02:15 Post: 101142
shortmagnum



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rp, As grinder said you will want to get all the topsoil removed. Topsoil will continue to rot and will settle. This is especially bad assuming you will want a concrete floor. You can make a nice pile of topsoil to use or sell later. It sounds like you have enough acreage to get fill from so you can build up the low spots with good clean fill. A few inches of road gravel on top of the fill will give you a good surface that you can use as is or top with concrete. I did this and mine is now ready for the building. Right now it looks like a 80'x60' parking lot.

An alternative to the top cylinder is to weight the blade. a few hundred pounds will help with cutting into the soil.
Have fun, Dave






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 12-10-2017, 16:58 Post: 101181
rpelleschi



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Guys, thanks for the input. I would have used the top soil not knowing any better. I do have plenty of area to pull fill from and will try to get the area built up. I plan on leaving it with a gravel floor, maybe pouring a smaller slab in the future to put in a smaller framed shop insde the building. Grinder, "Course stone"? When I ordered gravel once I was asked if I wanted something called "surge". Would that be the same thing?

Thanks
Randy






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 12-10-2017, 21:53 Post: 101186
hardwood



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Altho I've never used it flyash from coal fired powerplants has become another source for fill in our aeria, it seems to pack well and is less expensive than lime chips, (the most common fill here). Your comment on waiting till a later date with the concreet is by far the best thing you can do, that lets the fill settle on it's own, the longer the wait the better. Frank.






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 12-11-2017, 02:47 Post: 101196
grinder



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RP
I am not familiar with that term.
Like Frank said, waiting on the floor is probably a good thing. Not only to let it settle, but I perfer to pour a
floor with the roof on, out of the hot sun.
Ask them what surge is, I'm curious.
Perhaps there are some ongoing job's in your area you could stop at and see how others are preparing the site? I find
most people don't mind.






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 12-11-2017, 07:41 Post: 101199
denwood



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For your 4400, at least a 60" to cover wheel tracks, maybe a 72". Any bigger and you may find lack of traction to pull it when full. Many brands and quality levels, and higher quality usually means more steel, hence more counter weight.






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 12-11-2017, 12:36 Post: 101200
denwood



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If you want a hydralulic top link, you will need a 3rd remote because you probably don't want to remove your loader and use one of those. If you don't have one, the 3rd valve kit costs around $205 at the dealer. I found a guy that will sell me one for $171 plus $10 shipping and has the rest of JD accessories for a discount. Power beyond, mid PTO, telescopic lift arms.






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 12-12-2017, 03:19 Post: 101282
rpelleschi



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grinder, I sent a buddy an e-mail asking him what exactly surge was. He said that its a mix of anywhere between 6" gravel to dust. I sounded like all the junk the quary has on hand, but when I get home I'll call them direct. I will ask around when I get back as to what the neighbors did, but this site is a great source of info.






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 12-12-2017, 08:14 Post: 101283
rpelleschi



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denwood, hardwood recommended the Landpride 2572 I think was the model #. I will pick up a 6' when I get home. Before I found this site I bought a 5' rake not knowing any better. Wish I could have posted that question before I bought one. Thie is a great source of info. Thanks






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Barns and Out Buildings Forum

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