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vinyl siding
You have three option's as I see it. Not sure how the builing is framed, but you must have some framing between posts if you have sheet goods on it? How is it framed?
First thing to remember is the vinyl must be nailed loose.
In a climate of seasonal change the vinyl will buckle if nailed tight. It expands and contracts. You may or may not know this. I don't know your experience, so..
The vinyl must be nailed to a point where you can slide it
left and right when done.
You can buy Galv. roofing nails down to 5/8", but you can't hold on to them to nail. A 3/4 Galv nail would do,
but you would have some protrusion.
You could add another layer of sheathing,either inside or out, expensive.
You could strap what you have,and use a 1 1/4" nail.
What about insulation, are you planning to do that at some point? That would hide it.
IMHO A long nail is not needed, once through the sheathing, it has done it's job. I would use Galv. roofers on OSB
as they grab better than Alum.
Another thought, Not sure how old the sheathing is and what kind of shape it is in but,
If is fairly new and solid I would suggest painting at least the bottom 3-4'
near the ground before siding. OSB is known to act like a sponge over time and
will draw moisture and expand thus causing you nails to fail.
Oil based stain works good,get that bottom edge, and do the inside too.
Merely a suggestion.
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vinyl siding
I used to be a professional carpenter so I may could offer some suggestion but it would be helpful to know how you framed your walls. What is the spacing between framing members? You should be able to fasten the siding thru the OSB into the studs (or poles) without worry about protruding nails. If your framing is so spaced out as to not offer enough nailing points for the siding, I can't imagine that the sheathing has enough support. BTW, why does it concern you to have protruding nails in the stud bays? Are you concerned about the nails' lack of purchase in the OSB, or are you planning on leaving the interior of the stud bays unenclosed?
One alternative would be to get a box of galvanized decking scews (1" if you can find them, otherwise 1.25" and screw through the OSB into a 1x2 or 1x3 furring strip held vertically against the interior surface of the OSB. Place these furring strips 16" O.C. If you don't have a helper to hold the strips in place while you fasten from the outside, screw them in place from the inside temporarily with two or three 1 5/8" or 2" screws, removing these fasteners after the shorter screws are in place from the outside. Once the furring is in place, you can use the same type screws to attach the siding, taking care to hit the furring strips. As suggested, take care to leave the screw heads slightly proud of the fastening slot on the siding to allow for movement. This will leave you with no protruding fasteners, but you will have furring strips on the interior surface.
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vinyl siding
Normally just nailing into 7/16" OSB is not going to be enough to hold vinyl siding on or at least not very long especially if you have strong winds. I would think that you would need a little additional framing on the inside of the pole barn. Technically you are suppose to use aluminum nails for vinyl siding as the galvanized will eventually rust and sometimes leave rust streaks down your siding. Everyone uses galvanized nails because the aluminum bend too easy. Just some extra info. I used to sell vinyl siding and windows a while back for Norandex (now owned by Owenings Corning).
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vinyl siding
I guess I'm saying a lot of dumb things lately. I did go look at my building today. Yes the siding nails don't show thru because the siding is nailed in line with the studs on 16 in. centers. Frank.
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vinyl siding
I used to sell vinyl siding a while back for Norandex (now owned by Owenings Corning).
kubotaguy
====================
Vinyl siding sheets are only 10" high so there is no way to line up the top nailing edge with the 24" on center horizontal purloins of a pole barn.
What is needed is 24' high vinyl siding sheets to enable nailing the vinyl siding to the center of the purloins.
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vinyl siding
I guess I'm saying a lot of dumb things lately. I did go look at my building today. Yes the siding nails don't show thru because the siding is nailed in line with the studs on 16 in. centers.
Frank.
[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[
But you can't do this if you were to run the studs horizontal rather than vertical as in a pole barn.
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vinyl siding
1* What is the spacing between framing members?
2*You should be able to fasten the siding thru the OSB into the studs (or poles) without worry about protruding nails
3*BTW, why does it concern you to have protruding nails in the stud bays?
4*Are you planning on leaving the interior of the stud bays unenclosed?
Ardician
.===============.
1*Instead of having vertical studs spaced 24 inches on center I have horizontal purloins spaced 24 inches on center.
2*There aren't any studs in a pole barn because horizontal purloins replace studs.
Even if you were to nail the siding only in line with the poles you would still have the nail protruding problem because the osb is one and one half inches out from the poles due to the 2x4 purloins attached to the post.
3*Makes it difficult to run wiring inside the wall cavity - doin.t like the idea of mixing electrical wires with sharp pointed objects.
Makes it hard to finish the inside because the nails are in the way of installing paneling OSB or other covering such as wall board, etc.
Just seems to me the protuding nails are a sloppy obbed up way to do a job.
4*You can't leave the inside of the stud bays unenclosed with hundreds of sharp pointed nails sticking out.
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vinyl siding
Sounds like vertical strapping on the outside, 16" OC.
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vinyl siding
Sounds like vertical strapping on the outside, 16" OC.
Grinder
===============
I think I figured out a way to nail the vinyl siding to a pole building without any nails sticking out.
1*Run the osb horizontally and nail it to the Purloins using nails that aren't long enough go clear thought the OSB and the purloins
2*From the inside place either a 2x2 or a 2x4 vertically between each of the purloins from the top to the bottom of the wall. Do this every 24' on center from one end of the wall to the other.
3**Next mark the 24'' centers on the outside of the OSB.
4*Now nail the siding on at the marked 24 inch centers again bring sure the nails are shorter than the combined thickness of the osb and the 2 bys.
The nails used to attach the osb to the purloins should work for this as well.
Some side notes
You could go 16 inch centers rather than 24' centers.
The vertical 2 bys don't have to be permanently attached to the purloins as the siding nails will permanently attach them to the OSB.
Just toe nail them into the purloins on each end leaving the nail heads out far enough so that you can easily pull them after the siding is installed.
Another take on this would be to use a 2x4 notched out from top to bottom for the purloins then nail it through the notches into the purloins.
Again place these 24 or 16 inches on center your option.
The purpose of the 2 bys is to serve as covers or caps over the nail points not as part of the structural framing of the building. That has been taken care of by the post and the purloins.
Wish I would have done something like this on my building.
It's already built with all those hundreds of nails sticking out. Now I have to deal with the problem of how to fix the mess.
I can see it's a lot easier and better to prevent the problem that it is to fix it.
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vinyl siding
press a piece of styrofoam over the nails.
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12-14-2017, 19:07 
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