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Steel Framed barn anyone?
I am working on my barn plans. My intention is to have a 30 x 50 barn. I would like to have a loft over half of it, with sufficient height to put an office. Since I would like to have 10 ft on the base level and preferably an 8 ft knee wall on the level with the loft that would suggest an 18 ft sidewall height. I would like to have a clear span with no interior poles. So ... Trusses would reduce loft height. I was thinking about a steel frame. Has anyone gone this route? Any sense for the cost difference?
Thanks,
Larry
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Steel Framed barn anyone?
Sorry I can't speak to experience and prices. It sounds like you've been into design a bit so you probably already know how wide the loft would be with 8' knee walls and a typical pitched roof for a barn. I think there'd be a fair bit of space outside the knee walls for storage maybe and the office wouldn't be very wide.
If you haven't checked codes already, there may be minimum floor loads requirements even for barn structures. Codes would dictate the type trusses needed. Steel is one option for reducing truss heights but various manufactured beams also are available.
If you haven't done so already, I'd ask my building inspector what codes apply and what needs to be done. Inspectors usually can look up loading requirements as well as the types of materials and designs that are acceptable. Of course it's easy for me to ask the inspector in my municipality of 250 people. We all know each other, and the inspector and I are on volunteer fire crew.
The one thing I'd calculate carefully is the barn door height after the loft ceiling is designed, the door header requirement is known and the type door is selected. You could end up with barn door that's too low to drive your tractor through--or maybe a tractor you'll get in the future. I guess the barn door could be in the half that doesn't have a loft over it, but adequate door height is something you want to be certain of.
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We have sold some and they worked fine. The cost is more but the insureance is cheaper. I would go with what ever is right for you. Have you thought about post and beam?
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Steel Framed barn anyone?
I used 12 foot sidewalls and steel trusses on 10 foot centers. I have enough height for a lot and have a little over the bathroom area, but do not have a gambrel roof design. My barn is 42 x 60 though.
I used a standard barn truss used in the chicken barns, which are designed for a post barn. There are a number of manufactures in AL.
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As Art mentioned the initial cost of building is slightly higher, but IMHO, well worth it.
My shop at home (my pic. # 2) is a 40' x 50' with 14' wall height. I set it up with two 12' x 12' doors at one end and a 15' wide mezzanine at the other end, the washroom, workbench, etc., is all under the loft. I still have 35' of full height space, more than enough for anything I need to put in there. I found I had too much shop space used up with 'parking' so I added a 4.5 car garage onto the end later.
It has worked out very well and if I had to do it all over again the only thing I would change would be to re-arrange the layout so that I had one bay where I could drive in the front and out the back, then when I am working on a big trailer I could drive right through instead of trying to fiddle around backing up, and to allow better cross-ventilation to get rid of welding fumes, dust from sand-blasting, etc.
Best of luck.
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I have a steel framed barn building. It is not as tall as the one that you are talking about, but I do have storage above 8 ft interior rooms. I think the roof peak is about 16 ft. My barn is 30X40 and is insulated in the enclosed areas.
I am getting ready to put in another building that will have a 14' tall door and will be about 18' at the roof peak. It will be 40 X 60 steel construction. This building will not have any interior columns and the current 30X40 does not have any either.
My last custom machine shop building that I built, I did with conventional construction to match my house on the same lot. It had 15' tall interior walls and was fully drywalled inside with heating and AC. It was VERY expensive compared to the steel buildings. ($60 per square foot) It had a hoist/trolley built into the structure, but it was not worth the extra cost.
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I almost put a gantry crane in my shop, for loading & unloading the mezzanine, but decided it wasn't worth it for the few times I need to move something that heavy. Then I thought about a forklift, but realized I already have enough things to find parking for so went with forks on the loader intead. I'm really glad I didn't enclose the second floor, access is great with it being open, I can set a loaded pallet on the deck directly where I want it.
My next project for the shop is an elevator for the mezzanine. Stairs and I aren't on good terms, especially if I'm carrying something heavy.
Best of luck.
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I just left the enginer's office this am, I am building at 30x60 (30x40 enclosed the rest a dirt floor to park the new tc33d i will buy soon). I am ordering schedule 40 3'id round stock (21 ft lengths) and 3x3x1/4 (20 and 40 ft lengths) angle from berman brothers in jax fl. they will ship it on a flat bed to my house where i cut it to length.
the wife will drive the loader w/my welder,the piece of metal i intend to put in place and myself in the bucket. by welding i save considerable cost in fasteners and time to drill holes etc... a given weld of certian size is equivelent to a certian size bolt in strength, you just have to know the spec's (not hard to find from your local library or welding shop). As someone posted earlier there is someone in alabama who pre fabs truses, am unsure where but will find out. they can make it cheaper than i can. As for the tin i would suggest you use a 22-27 cal. remington nail gun, put the tin in place and simply "nail" your case hardened nail through the tin into the 1/4 in wall thickness i have suggested above. trust me it works, they work great for more than JUST concrete. I intend to drop 3inch pvc pipe in the concrete before pouring (strap it good so it does not move) for electrical and air hoses, heat the end w/ a torch to make a gentle sweep (cheaper than buying and you get a beter sweep to fit your specific need in my opinion). if you intend to put a table in a certian place add pipes spcificly for that area to have air/power to the table, this keeps you from having a million hoses/cords to trip over. hense... a 4x6 table use only a 10-12 ft air hose w/a quick disconnect instead of a 50 ft hose from your air tank across the room. i will drop every extra piece of pvc i can in the floor strategicly w/caps in the end for later use since your shop is like a hot rod it's "never finished". when you decide you need a line in a certian pipe just stuff a ya'llmart bag w/a string attached in one end and a shop vac in the other and pull what ever you intend to use through the pipe w/ the string. make sure you put plenty of "deadmans" in your floor, never know when you will need to "pull" something such as a truck frame, etc... as posted earlier, make sure to follow your local guidelines lest you get into more bs than you want to. sorry it was so long, i got on a roll. hope this helps.
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Steel Framed barn anyone?
I would recommend looking into the steel building kits that are readily available. (Butler, General Steel, etc) The parts will be cut to size and all you have to do is bolt the building together. I believe that a simple 40 X 60 kit with a couple of overhead doors was only about $15K. That includes all structural metal, covering panels, doors and so forth. You do not have to shop for trusses or special parts. There are Internet sites where you can custom design and order your building kit.
The concrete pad and labor are the major additional costs, but those costs are insignificantly different and lower with the kit compared to building out of lengths of pipe and angle.
I like the idea about the pipe for running cords and hose. I have chosen to make drops from the ceiling, but those sometimes interfere with the forklift.
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Steel Framed barn anyone?
ac5zo, you are correct that the major suppliers do offer superior install kits ie.. no fitting pieces. my decisions was based on cost vs ability to do myself. the complete cost for ALL of the steel for the structure will be $1600.00 dollars, a far cry from 15K you mention. my whole shop including pvc,concrete,wiring,doors (made by myself) using rollers off ebay for 10-20 dollars (check out how cheep you can find those for on ebay) steel frame, and tin with enamel coating for less than 7k. thats the best deal around by far, my parents built a 25x35 just like this w/ the same welder and loader and had the whole frame up in 2 8 hour days...not bad for people over 60ys old.
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