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RE: eye bolts in the floor.
The guy we bought from (he built the pole barn) was a car nut & had 4 "V" shaped plates in the floor (I think they are standard for auto body shops) that he used for frame straightening. If the idea is for straightening things, it is better/stronger than eye bolts and is flush with the floor.
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I think i would check building codes befor installing a floor pit.I believe they have outlawed for safty reasons,gas fumes being heaver than air.Maybe it's ok if you install some kind of ventilation system.Reg
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I built a 60' x 40' Morton building within the last year in Northern Texas. I grew up with Morton in the midwest and their quality is of the highest standards. They will be anywhere from 20% - 35% higher than most but it is worth it. They had mine up in 6 business days after promising 14! Crews are top notch guys.
For heating, I recommend in floor water heat. Two of my friends in Illinois have airplane hangers (80' x 100' clearspan Morton buildings) heated with floor water only and it is incredible how warm the building is. One place the hoses in the sand under the concrete floor while the other placed the hoses in the 5" concrete. Both work good with each boiler only at 50% of capacity. I chose not to put in floor heat in Texas since our cold season is nothing compared to the north. I am not an expert on floor / radiant heat but after seeing what my two buddies did, I am sold on it if I ever move to a colder climate.
az
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Thanks for the input Aaron. I am seriously considering Morton at this time. I was impressed by the video they sent me as well. My only question at this point is whether to go 12' or 14' ceiling heigth.
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I have always thought the higher the better. It's not like it's going to blow over in a high wind or cost that much more to heat or cool if insulated properly. The real cost is the 2' in wall height and little bit of insulation or finishing material used. Send me your e-mail address and I will send you a link to my building on the Morton site if they still have it archived. My e-mail is "az@netscape.com"
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Hey Cutter, you wont regret getting a Morton, just dont believe everything
they tell you on the video. When choosing a height, don't forget morton's
vaulted trusses allow higher doors on the ends of the builings than on the
sides, for example you can drive a 13' foot truck through the middle of a
12' building. Also, doors on the ends are less expensive than on the sides
because you wont need load bearing headers.
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I didn't realize that was the case with those trusses. Nice to know, I wonder how much extra they are? I'm still waiting for a price from everyone I have talked to . Must be the economy is still roaring.
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We're starting a 36' X 48' barn next week. The foundation has been in the ground since November. Since my largest carpentry project to date is a fishing shack I'm having a couple of builders I know do it.
If you are interested you can see a photo of the design of building we're doing at www.abbarns.com Click on stall barns and look for barn photo 2h.The difference is we're using architechural roof shingles and 6 inch cedar clapboards for siding.
The shape is New England style with 12 foot walls and a 24 foot loft.
We're going to try to make the cupola "functional" with an inside access and a shooting bench to look out over our back fields for deer.
Hpoe to have it all wrapped up by April
Tim Connolly
Maine
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Cutter;
I just completed a barn that is of the same dimensions as the one you describe.
Unlike everyone else I made the structure from insulated concrete forms (ICF) from Arxx. My material costs are around 20 K with insulation, plumping, and insulated doors.
I put the structure on a pre exsisting slab and only poured up sections. I have a fireplace in the garage from the prevous structure and have made a bath room and kitchen area. The idea dog house.
ICF blocks are easy to assemble you can work on your own with extra help only needed on pour day. The other advantage is that the structure is insulated R50.
I have not read through the full posting but radiant heat is good if you want to heat all the time. It will take days to heat up the slab. Use of a hot water tank is good if on gas and gas is inexpensive but remember you get nothing for free. It will take a number of BTUs to heat the barn and radiant heat does not reduce the heating requirements that much. With out careful control of ground water under the slab and insulation it can cost more.
I have an out side wood heater which heats water. It is easy to maintain and works like a normal hot water heater off thermostats. This is an option but again the question is are you going to heat it all the time. I am looking for radiant hot water heat unit I can hang up in the barn and blow heated air from the wood burner when needed.
Another less expensive option is to use a geothermal unit water to water if slab heated. I set up on in the house for ~ 10K heating and cooling. The base units are as low as 3.5K.
For the roof I used steel chicken house trusses and mounted these into the cement walls. In this area wind storms are a problem. The roof is very ridgid.
As with any new construction I made mistakes that cost money and time. If I did it over again I would spend less of both.
E-mail me if you want to see some pictures.
Link:
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Sounds impressive Peters! I would like to see some pictures. My shell is done and the doors are on, but this one you are building sounds interesting.
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Gas Generator Weather Protecti
12-04-2016, 23:42 
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